What should have been a twelve-hour trip from Palm Beach, FL to West End, Grand Bahama took nearly twenty-four hours. We left in the evening with a forecast of strong northeasterly winds and rain. We were expecting to sail in heavy weather and prepared accordingly, but nothing could have actually readied us for the crossing. Though we will try, no words can fully capture the intensity. Sailing close-hauled against the wind and multiple squalls in complete darkness, keeping the sails trimmed well and steering through large, inconsistent waves while seasick was a tremendous challenge. In order to keep the boat driving through the waves, some of which were over 15 feet, it was necessary to balance sail area with its effects on the helm, thus maximizing boat speed without compromising steering because of excessive weather helm. The seasickness was intensified by pungent fumes from the gas tanks, now leaking from the waves’ punishment. The compass in the cockpit by which we were steering was off roughly 300 from our electronic navigational systems. Anything that could have come loose in the cabin quickly found its way to the floor: a mirror, food, cookware, extra life jackets, trash, all sorts of miscellaneous gear and supplies. The sink overflowed due to the pressure and wave action on its through-hull. The holding tank backed-up due to similar pressures, flooding JB’s bed and the head. Almost constantly submerged due to our angle of heel, the starboard toerail leaked, soaking clothes, books, our beds, and some electronics. The bolt on our transom-mounted outboard motor mount came loose, lowering the 15 hp motor into the water. Through it all we sailed actively as a team, steering continuously by hand, managing sail changes, reefing, and keeping everything on deck. No damage was caused to the boat’s structure, rigging, or sails and everything we had lashed to the deck and lifelines was still attached the next morning. When the sun finally rose, the ocean had calmed but one more challenge awaited. We could see a squall forming to the east of our location, which we obviously wanted to avoid. Hoping it would not pass over us, we waited to see what direction the storm would take and adjusted our course. By our quick thinking and some luck, we managed to outrun it. As we were exhausted and battered by the conditions of the night before, it was an incredible relief to see West End on the horizon. Crossing the Florida Straits under such conditions immediately put our boat and our seamanship skills to the test. The experience left us feeling confident in one another and in our boat, while humbled by the power of the seas and wind.
